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Interview: Meet Guido Biondi, President’s Ceo.

Not only does Guido Biondi own one of the coolest names that we’ve ever come across, he also happens to be the CEO of tremendous Tuscan menswear brand President’s. Founded in 1957 this illustrious Italian brand combines tradition with in-depth research to present their own inimitable and uncompromising take on contemporary classics. Which is clearly why we love them so much here at Proper and the reason why we decided to give Guido a gentle grilling about President’s in this interview.

How is life in Italy at the moment, it seems to us like things are pretty much back to normal now the lockdown has ended?

Now in Italy it’s coming back to normality. We were the first country to act on the lockdown and it was a good solution to decrease the contagion.

How has the pandemic affected the running of President’s?

President’s was affected especially in the US not only because of COVID but also due to the riots. Many states are still closed and that makes things hard to handle. We are looking forward to having the normal life back again.

What about on a personal level, how did you cope with the isolation?

It was a strange situation especially because I had a baby in February so I did a full immersion of dad work, that helped me to stay busy. We discovered a smart working reality that can help continue the company’s life but can’t replace my real job of working on items.

All of your amazing garments are made in Italy and where possible in Florence which is a place particularly close to my heart having lived in Tuscany in the 90s. What is it about this beautiful region that makes it so special in your opinion?

Tuscany has a timeless beauty and style. It is the land of craftsmanship, high quality yarns, leather. This country is full of authenticity because we can still find small labs and artisans that keep this culture alive.

Away from the obvious tourist spots in Tuscany are there any places off the beaten track that you can recommend us to come and check out over there?

The Tuscan region is a mix of various landscapes from the sea to the hills and the mountains. Very nice but a not so much discovered place is Casentino, especially Poppi, famous for its castle and the amazing “ravioli”. In the Casentino area they invented “Casentino wool”, a very compact and durable fabric that was used for hunting jackets for the military that’s now an elegant and sophisticated material used all around the world.

What can we expect to see in the new President’s AW20 collection?

The title of AW20 collection is Tuscan Renaissance. It wants to celebrate the link between the brand and Tuscan region – its homeland – emphasized by the local artisan workmanship. Embroidered flowers and hand knitted sweaters are blended with shades of green, camel, orange and purple, the typical colours of this land.

Do you have any personal favourite pieces?

My favourite piece could be the tousled shaggy fleece. The material comes from the inspiration of American outdoor brands, but this one it is made with 100% virgin wool and has been developed in Tuscany

Like a fool I missed out on your sweatshirts with the multicoloured embroidered logo on the front, will you be doing any more of those in future seasons?

It’s not a carry over item, but people like the embroidery made that was made with a cornelly machine from the 1950s.

Having been around since 1957 is there a President’s archive and if so can we come and have a look please?

President’s brand was founded and registered in 1957 by my Grandpa, but it wasn’t used in nearly 60 years until I recuperated it and gave it a precise identity (around 2010). Even if there’s not a big archive of President’s, in our company you will find a Roy Roger’s archive – the first Italian blue jeans (1952). It allows us to conserve the historic memory of our company, and the story of years of experimentation and of unique and creative processes based on manual craftsmanship. It also represents a constant source of inspiration: this is where I start from when I begin to design a new collection.

President’s always makes me think of the type of clothes I’d wear on a date (with my wife) to an impressive restaurant that’s still relaxed enough to really enjoy yourself in. Do you have a perfect place like this where you can go to unwind and enjoy some amazing food?

A very nice and informal restaurant is Osteria delle Tre Panche…specialising in truffle dishes.

What can we expect to see from President’s in the future?

President’s is an underground and independent brand so I really hope to increase the business, to also help the work of local artisans, and spread out the Italian culture with President’s contemporary vibes.

Interview: Ghemon, Italian rapper and song-writer.

President’s in conversation with Ghemon, Italian Rapper that we styled for his new videoclips “Questioni di principio” and “In un certo qual modo”.

You started out as a writer, then gradually landed in music and hip-hop in the second half of the 90s. What prompted you to make music rather than graffiti?

It would be easier to ask the opposite question, that is, how the hell did I end up doing graffiti even before music? In fact, when I approached Hip-Hop in 1995, my friends and I were trying to do a little bit of everything: rap, DJ, graffiti, breakdance. Improvising. It was a way to unleash our creativity, to continue with what I felt most inclined to, working on my basic talent, which perhaps I didn’t even know I had at the time.
Constant training is necessary, whether you have great skills or not.

Unlike the stereotype of the contemporary rapper, you carry on the concept of never being aggressive, expressing yourself with the good. How would you define your way of making music?

I am like this also in everyday life, and this is how I behave. However, I always say “don’t mistake my kindness for weakness”. I know how to be respected, but it is not with aggression that I get what I want. I know that in this world, which is sometimes so cynical, there are many people who are in my same part of humanity, in my own heart. I speak to them and with them.

We have many points in common, such as the passion for basketball and street culture. What impressed you of President’s?

President’s idea seems to revisit the style of the Italian tradition, the one that everyone envies us, our roots, our materials and take it to the next level, meeting the new languages of the world,. This is what fashion communicates today by merging with streetwear. I saw all this in your brand and I identified with it. I found everything so elegant and stylish, without urgency to be loud. That’s what I mean for style.

What are the items that can never be missing in your wardrobe?

Wow, really difficult question. Sneakers, first of all. I collect them and I have more than 500 pairs. Always new t-shirts, because that’s something I never give up. And a camel-colored coat or raincoat, because even if you wear a suit underneath, it solves an entire outfit.

We had the pleasure of collaborating with you for the styling of the video “Questioni di principio”, a song that summarizes your path from 2007 to present. How do you find difficult to maintain your identity in such a fickle world?

It is very difficult to be original and different, in such a global world, where everyone is constantly playing for their own opportunity, the famous “15 minutes of celebrity”, as Warhol said. We must be constant and understand that our real resource is to be ourselves.

Interview: Desron Dorset, Vice-president of 76ers.

Can you please give us an intro of your bio.. how did you get into the basket world?

I was born on an island in the Caribbean called Saint Kitts but I’ve been a lifelong fan of the NBA. It was always a goal of mine to work with such a prestigious league. Now, I’ve been with the Philadelphia 76ers for six seasons. From 10-win seasons to 50-win seasons to our current-day Championship mentality, it has been a great journey.

The sixers performed very well last season. What do you think are the keys to success?

Over the course of the season, the team has seen a lot of changes to its roster. You could argue that these changes could have gone either way. Fortunately for us, the team was able to gel down the stretch and perform at an elite level. The team’s chemistry is what makes us so strong. Right now, we have arguably the most talented roster in the NBA and only time will tell where we go from here. We expect great things from the 76ers in 2020 and beyond.

You travel a lot around the world; do you have an object that accompanies you, of which you never separate?

My Apple Watch. Over the past couple years, I’ve prioritized my health and wellness. My Apple Watch does a great job of tracking my movement throughout the day and telling me when I need to breathe. Whenever I travel to a new city, I always go out for a run to really get a feel for the place and my watch always accompanies me.

Among your travels, you also came to visit us in Italy. Favorite dish?

Anything with truffles.

Even in the NBA world, there is a lot of attention to fashion. What is the favorite items from the players?

As I look from afar, I’d say players pay a lot of attention to their footwear. Footwear is huge. Whether or not they endorse a particular brand, sneaker culture has engrained itself into the NBA and beyond. Coming in a close second is easily the accessory bag.

What struck you about President’s?

I was introduced to the brand by a close friend of mind, Dustin Lewis. I think I went four days straight wearing one of President’s flannel shirts, so I went back to Dustin like, “I need more from this brand.” Ironically, Dustin was planning a visit to President’s headquarters and asked if I was available. I made the trip and instantly fell in love with President’s appreciation for fabrics and production. Now, I’m a fan for life and can’t wait for us to do more with President this upcoming season.

Florence’s leading men – President’s on Mr Porter

As the Fall Winter 2018 collection is about to launch, one of President’s retailers – renowned online giant Mr Porter – gives a sneak peek to a few pieces in the collection, while President’s CEO and creative director, Guido Biondi, gives a sneak peek into our history, our Crafted in Tuscany philosophy, and some Florence favourites.

“Everything President’s does is made in Italy, and where possible it’s made in Florence. The knitwear is a Scottish yarn produced in Lastra a Signa, which is just a few miles away. The denim comes from Japan. The leather comes from Santa Croce, an area between Florence and Pisa that’s famous for vegetable tanning. I like to bring a blend of well-researched materials from all around the world – but everything is made in Italy.”

Get your first outfit suggestions of the season (the Alpaca wool coat Egg is an Autumn favourite!), and read the full interview here.

 

Mr Guido Biondi for MRPORTER.COM. Photography by Mr Davide Annibale.

 

SS 18 – rooted in the past, designed for the contemporary

Retro Culture is the name guiding President’s through the Spring Summer 2018 season. A collection rooted in the past but designed for the contemporary and inspired by the surfing and skateboarding movements of the 1960s California, carefully Crafted in Tuscany.

In its creations President’s synthesises the quest for top quality fabrics and Tuscan manufacturing traditions and is for SS 18 replaying the elements of surf and skate on the note of essential contemporary luxury.

Retro Culture proposes hand printed and hand painted t-shirts and jackets created by Tuscan artists, shirts in new colour variants and in vintage prints, prints also elegantly used as a silk lining of jackets in ecru selvedge bull denim. Blazers and Bermudas are made from the finest Egyptian Giza cotton nodding to the retro with its stripe variants giving a sense of the American 60s inspiration standing behind the entire collection.

No P’s collection will of course be missing of a great pair of Icarus jeans in selvedge raw denim or a good pair of selvedge gabardine chinos. As previous collections, Spring Summer 2018 looks to the past with the eyes of the future, making every garment an evergreen and not a a piece that simply follows the trends of the moment.

See the full Spring Summer 2018 collection here.

Classical and cutting-edge for Autumn Winter 2017-18

At President’s we’re entering the new season on a continued quest to present garments that combines supreme quality fabrics with fine Tuscan know-how. The AW 17-18 collection proposes must-have contemporary garments with President’s unique twist.

 

 

Key pieces come in Loro Piana and Dugdale & Bros wools, garment-dyed 100% cashmeres, Japanese cottons and denims, Egyptian Giza shirt cottons and super soft checked flannels, many of them reinterpreted on a military note with technical details. The colours ranges from light and creamy whites and blues to deep burgundy and navy, broken off with military greens, autumnal browns and a few dots of red.

 

Always with a view to offering an improved product that is at once classical and cutting-edge, President’s has this season worked in liaison with the Made in Italy company Thindown. Both the Kadavu and Lexter jackets are made with this 100% certified down padding that thanks to it coming in the form of a fabric has a high concentration of down while keeping the volume down, allowing us to create garments that are warmer but at once also less bulky.

President’s constant eye towards the fields of art, photography and travel is reflected in the set surroundings of the AW 17-18 collection, placed at the famous landscape artwork “Cretto di Burri” (also known as “The Great Cretto”) undertaken by Alberto Burri in the old city of Gibellina, Italy.

See the full Autumn Winter 2017-18 collection here

Interview: Michael Burns

President’s in conversation with Michael Burns, founder of the NYC based M5 Showroom and recently also, M5 Shop.
Photos by Thomas Welch

Your showroom, M5, has become a destination for menswear cognoscenti because you house and sell a fantastic edit of European and Japanese menswear. How did you get into such a specific niche? 

It was developed over the years but basically I work with brands that I like, that I would wear. That goes for me and the M5 Team.

Tell us a little about the M5 shop concept. 

The M5 Shop is a unique retail experience. It is by appointment only as it started as a way to work with some celebrity friends of the M5 Showroom. The average stay of a customer is one hour and 20 minutes. The store is staffed by the brand ambassadors from M5 Showroom so you have guys that know and love the brands they handle. It is a relaxed place to meet the guys from M5, talk about current events, how bad the NY Knicks are and of course about some fantastic clothing.

 

 

What’s your story? How did you get into the apparel business? 

I got into the business about 20 years ago.

From high school, during university and after I worked for my uncle in the gaming industry in the USA and Mexico. My uncle used to take me with him on shopping trips to Louis Boston, Barneys and Bergdorf; he would buy new things and I would get some great hand-me-downs. From that I developed an appreciation for nice things. On trips to Italy and London I would pick up stuff from Stone Island and other great brands. A friend and his brother had a necktie factory outside of Milan, they were looking for someone to sell in America so I jumped in and that was the start, selling neckties. I should say, trying to sell neck ties I wasn’t very successful but it was a very useful experience and got me into a business that I really have a passion for.

How has the new space on Varick St. been working out? You guys have some fantastic views of Manhattan… 

Right, fantastic views of NYC. We all love the space. It was a former photo studio and we kept one of the photo ramps to do our in house shoots and to make it available for others. The space also allowed us to open the M5 Shop in the same location and we are able to hold fun events inside as well as lend it to some charities that we believe in.

What’s the best thing about running a style-oriented business in New York City? 

Well NYC is definitely a style city; style from street to luxury. You have to do it right here otherwise the city will call you out.

What is it about President’s that drew M5 to the brand? What, specifically, do you think sets Italian brands apart from brands from elsewhere in Europe? 

First I noticed the design and then on closer examination I could see the quality of the garments. After checking out President’s I met Guido, the designer, and from there I knew that M5 and President’s were on the same page.

I think Italians know quality, from the fabrics to construction. Sure they know style, we all know that but they are masters at producing “nice” things. I like high quality especially when it comes with a correct price, let’s say a fair price.

President’s is a very good value, Made in Italy, top fabrics, quality construction and classic modern design.

President’s is available at M5 Shop in store and online here.

Interview: Robert Hirsh

President’s in conversation with Robert Hirsh, founder of the Mexico City based menswear store, Silver Deer.

Silver Deer has become well-known known around the world as a destination for menswear in the past few years. Tell us about how the store started.
Since I was young I always liked fashion and dressing with style. One day, on a flight back home from San Francisco in 2011, I started to think about the fact that I liked to shop but that I didn’t want to travel for 4 hours on a plane to do so, coupled with the fact that you could not find interesting luxury men’s fashion in Mexico. Consequently, I saw an opportunity that no one had exploited and in 2012 I opened Silver Deer, offering the best selection of high end men’s fashion brands. In Mexico, Silver Deer is the only retailer that introduces new and edgy brands and we strive to offer a different point of view in terms of product as well as of luxury to the Mexican man.

 

How did you end up in Mexico City?
In 1998, I worked for a Canadian Bank and they moved me here for a special project. For me it was a life changer, even though I’m a proud Canadian. The weather here is amazing – except it lacks snow – and I’m getting to fulfill my life’s passion.

 

It’s a city positively buzzing with art and culture and philosophy and some of the best food in the world, right? What are your favorite things about D.F. and your neighborhood?
I find that Mexicans have a very unique way of presenting seafood dishes. There is a place at Colonia Roma, a very hip neighborhood, called Contramar, and it is one of my favorites, the food is amazing. Also, it’s a very concurred place so you will always find someone you know. That’s something amazing of this city, even though it’s the biggest of the world, no matter where you go you will find someone you know!

 

You always look mighty sharp. Do you have a personal style philosophy of sorts?
I think looking good is feeling good, so I not only think of my style as something I wear, but the way I live. I exercise – running and skiing are my favorite sports – I take care of what I eat, even though I sometimes pamper myself with a little indulgence. I also love to read and keep up in current events.

 

What is it about President’s that has drawn Silver Deer to the brand? We’re very pleased to be among the many excellent brands in the shop.
President’s is one of my favorite brands, I just love it, not only because I sell it, but even before, when I was just a normal client. The fabrics are top quality, the textures unique, and they’ve managed to keep a fresh and young approach. It fits my style and my customers style to the perfection.

President’s is available at Silver Deer in store and online here.

Interview: Todd Barket

President’s in conversation with Todd Barket, founder of the San Francisco based menswear store, Unionmade.
Photos by Kelsey McClellan. 

Unionmade has built a reputation as one of the best classic menswear stores in the world. What’s the brand’s origin story?
I have worked in retail all of my adult life. I worked for Gap Inc for almost 20 years in various creative capacities and I was always lucky to work with people who had great taste and understood quality. I was also lucky to understand what American style and personal style meant to consumers. With my past experience I have come to realize that it’s nice to have a classic base to our wardrobe. Things that get better with age, things that you want to hold onto. It seems that at Unionmade we are doing the opposite of what is happening in the world, but luckily we have a group of customers who share this idea of timelessness and quality with us.

After I left my old job in 2009 I wanted to start my own project. I was always inspired by stores in Japan like Beams, Journal Standard and B Shop and their take on Americana. They always had an unexpected twist to it that made it not literal.  When we opened we were heavily based in American brands, many of which people haven’t seen in years and we were able to curate and present things in a way that people hadn’t seen before and give it our own twist. The concept resonated with people and we have luckily had a very loyal following since.

How do you keep things interesting season after season?
I always look forward to the next season. I think that’s why I always liked retail so much, because there is always change, movement, and new ideas. We work really hard to find new lines and concepts each season, we travel for inspiration and meet a lot of people. We are lucky because so many of the people we have been working with do such an amazing job at recreating their lines seasonally, so there’s built in freshness there. We are also lucky we get a lot of word of mouth connections from people about different lines but at the end of the day, we are out looking in showrooms, talking to people and making connections.

There is so much cultural and economic vitality in San Francisco, but it’s not generally thought of as a style capital like Paris, New York, or even Los Angeles. What are your thoughts on the matter? Is Unionmade changing that?

I have lived in San Francisco for 25 years and it’s changed so dramatically during that time. When I first arrived it felt like a secret. If you were in the know you understood how amazing of a place it is: beautiful, gritty, diverse, and with character unlike any city I have ever been to. The secret is out and new people are coming to live here all the time, which I think has helped us cement ourselves as a casually stylish city. The city oddly has a really classic and casual approach to style and people tend not to fall into trends and are rather understated. We invented denim here and we are home to several internationally known brands. People have a distinct sensibility and we have developed our own sense of style. We have educated people who like quality and appreciate thoughtful design. Our food scene is unmatched and it seems like with the food movement revolving around quality it has moved into clothing and other aspects of people’s lives too. I think Unionmade has a distinctly San Francisco point of view, and I’m always thinking about how the things we buy will work into people’s wardrobes as well as their lives.  We have a large group of customers who look to us to disseminate seasonal ideas for them and show them how to interpret ideas through our lens.

You’re in a real hotpot between the Castro and the Mission. What’s your favorite thing about the neighborhood?

We are in a great neighborhood! The Castro is the birthplace of gay rights and continues to be the most famous gay neighborhood in the world. The Mission was a Latin neighborhood that has morphed into a diverse area brimming with restaurants and retail. We are in the middle of both, near Dolores Park, a gathering place for everyone on the south side of the city. We are also lucky to have great neighbor stores. The building that we are in is a historic pre 1906 earthquake victorian and the city has done a great job of keeping the personality of each of its neighborhoods, large chain businesses are not allowed for example. My favorite part about the neighborhood is the diversity and access to great amenities.

 

You always look so dapper. Do you have a personal style philosophy of sorts?

Thank you. At my age I’m not trying too many new things. I have always been into fashion and worked around it, so I’ve always had access to clothing at many levels and I like to mix things. Long before fast fashion there was Gap which have played a huge role in my sense of style. The idea was nicely priced well designed basics that you can wear and make your own, with your personal style. My philosophy is kind of the same. I tend to have a base of easy quality basics and I layer with pieces that have a little bit more of character. I tend to hold onto a lot and mix old pieces in with new, as I tend to wear only neutrals (blues, grey, creams, black). Everything works together and always mixes well.

Tell us how Unionmade selects the products it sells? What are the general characteristics of items that make your rigorous edit?
We definitely see a lot of product but we only have a limited amount of space, so that is one thing that tends to keep us in check. I usually use myself as the brand filter. I feel like everything I buy I would want to wear. There is nothing that we have that I don’t like. The buying in curation is really personal and I work really hard to edit and present the best of what we have seen.

What is it about President’s that has drawn Unionmade to the brand? We’re so pleased to be among the excellent brands in the shop.
President’s makes complete sense to us. It’s high quality, understated and beautifully executed. The story of the brand is lovely and Guido and his family have such a passion that we were instantly attracted to what they do. Also, we love their connection to the creative world and the love of photography. Customers love it because the quality is evident from the first touch and all of the pieces easily work into everyone’s wardrobes and anyone can style them how they choose, which is what Unionmade is built upon.

What does Italian style mean to you?
In America I think we have an interesting perception of what Italian style is. We see the fashion side of things with the design houses and the seasonal trend ideas but when you go to Italy and see the sense of style that people have it’s always amazing, and inspiring. Italians know how to keep it casual but always looked pulled together. People take great care in how they look no matter what their socioeconomic situation – I have always felt it’s quality over quantity.

President’s is available at Unionmade in store and online here.

Tactile delights for SS17

The Spring Summer 2017 collection continues on the path of creating a durable and expertly-crafted wardrobe for the contemporary man, bringing streetwear and Italian sartorial tradition together. 

The collection draws on the adventure and romance of travel in the pre-Jet Age. The color palate of military greens, tans, blues, and rich reds evoke exotic exploration, from the great outdoors to the sumptuous interiors of classic hotels. As ever, President’s cuts no corners when it comes to materials – among the season’s tactile delights are top-shelf denims and chambrays from Japan, luxurious Tuscan leather, and premiere cottons and wools from Loro Piana and Sabotini, respectively.

All-new pieces include fresh swimwear and a versatile Travel Pant in super light poplin, while the outerwear is marked by key pieces such as a novel Field Jacket with a hand-painted camouflage poplin exterior, a must-have biker jacket,  a Nappa suede bomber and over all light fabrics and interesting colour combinations. 

Signature pieces, such as the classic pocket-T are seen in new cuts, fabrics, and colorways while evergreen classics such as P’s crewneck sweater in Japanese fabrics return to make you crave it again.

See the full Spring Summer 2017 collection here.